If you read my recent post about Uncle Thulu and the Supernatural Branch you would know that I had some brush issues! I have mostly only purchased synthetic brushes which have a short shelf life although I probably don't look after them 100%. While at a local art store I tried to find some good stable hair brushes however they didn't seem to have anything that would be good for the fine details modelling requires. However I did pick up some brush cleaner, The Masters brush cleaner seemed to be a common brand used amongst some of the blogs I read so I got a pottle.
I followed all the instructions and watched a couple of youtube videos of people cleaning brushes which looked like they were clean in the first place then gave it a shot.
So how did it fair? As you can see in the picture there was some improvement after about 10 minutes of cleaning them. They were a little softer although I think I may have made the tips worse making it harder to paint fine detail. However I think the improvement was pretty minor and the brush cleaner is designed to stop brushes from getting to this stage rather than fixing them when they do. Alas the true test will be when I paint up some models.
My next course of action is to buy some hopefully good brushes. However what to get, especially in New Zealand where postage for such a small item is a hassle. Here are a couple of questions I would love answered if you have the time. Are brushes simply labelled Kolinski stable brushes ok (there are some from NZ Slave to Panting which look ok). From what I understand Kolinski stable provides high quality horse hair and a few different companies who turn these into brushes. Or does Kolinski stable manufacture its own brushes? What size brushes should I get and what is the best way to store brushes. Also how often should I use the brush cleaner. Some answers and tips would be great!
Inside was what I thought was some kind of cream. However it actually turned out to be almost but not quite solid mixture of some kind.
Anyhow I thought I may as well give it a shot on some of my well used synthetic brushes to see if it would make a difference. I figured it wouldn't but I also figured people on their blogs always say things like, I never expected so and so to work out but in the end it did! I guess this would most likely happen to me and revolutionise my life. Sweet.
As you can see below my brushes have a lot of paint stuck near the base and the brush at the bottom is very stiff.
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| Before |
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| After (I pretty much gave up on the middle brush as it was to far gone) |
So how did it fair? As you can see in the picture there was some improvement after about 10 minutes of cleaning them. They were a little softer although I think I may have made the tips worse making it harder to paint fine detail. However I think the improvement was pretty minor and the brush cleaner is designed to stop brushes from getting to this stage rather than fixing them when they do. Alas the true test will be when I paint up some models.
My next course of action is to buy some hopefully good brushes. However what to get, especially in New Zealand where postage for such a small item is a hassle. Here are a couple of questions I would love answered if you have the time. Are brushes simply labelled Kolinski stable brushes ok (there are some from NZ Slave to Panting which look ok). From what I understand Kolinski stable provides high quality horse hair and a few different companies who turn these into brushes. Or does Kolinski stable manufacture its own brushes? What size brushes should I get and what is the best way to store brushes. Also how often should I use the brush cleaner. Some answers and tips would be great!
I've been using the same cleaner or a long time now - probably need to get a new can. That said, it's been okay for cleaning, but my brushes (synthetics) always curl at the tip after a while. No matter how clean the bristles are, the tips always end up curling.
ReplyDeleteI get the same curling effect or just that the tip is far less pointy. I hope horse hair lasts longer, the Internet has led me to believe as long as you look after em that's the case.
DeleteI go through brushes like a maniac goes through victims, Rosemary & Co I believe are considered some of the best but somebody more knowledgeable should be along soon.
ReplyDeleteSame here. But it's such a pain getting more so I really want some that last but are not to expensive. Probably an impossible ask.
DeleteIm in the same boat as Francis. I always thought that brush cleaner was that water you had in a little jar on the side of the desk.
ReplyDeleteHaha me to although my water gets pretty dirty. Maybe I need to change it more.
DeleteThe Holy Grail appear to Windsor And Newton brand Kolinsky Sable Series7 Miniature... but they cost an arm and a leg and as you say shipping costs dont help and if you dont look after them, then it would be a pointless exercise! ;-)
ReplyDeleteFor brush cleaner - just ask your friendly neighborhood pharmacy for some isopropyl alcohol - thats whats in most proprietory brush cleaners. Stnd brush in it overnight, though blu tac handle to side of container so bristles arent bent out of shape while standing ...
In general, when using brush - try not to get paint up into metal bit. Also thin your paints slightly for use, clogs the bristles less. Clean brush thoroughly after use, spin bristle through your hand back to a point and stand upright in a jar to dry...
Hope this helps!
Hey Scott. Some very helpful tips. I think part of my problem is I just need to care for them more. I think the bluetak idea for storing them upside down is a good idea but i am unlikely to get isopropyl alcohol. Or do they do hand outs?
DeleteI think I might get some generic kolinsky sable brushes from slave to painting and see how that goes before I get anything to outrageous.
Its fairly inexpensive stuff, from local pharmacy - they'll probably have a stock bottle of 500ml which they'll pour out into say 50ml or 100ml whatever you want... The generic kolinsky sable are still good - recently I've been using the army painter brushes from Slave to Painting and they have been fine, but for the odd bristle that need trimming off...
DeleteI'd just second the rest and say the Kolinsky Sables are the bomb. Being cheap, I didn't spring for good brushes for some years and when I finally made the switch, I regretted having waited so long. After trying quite a few sables, I'm head over heels for my Raphael 8404s. I have 2 in my collection and nothing holds a point as well or as long as they do. I do especially like my zero but I do a good bit of 15mm painting so YMMV. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteHi Monty. Thanks for the advice. This thread has been very useful!
DeleteA second vote for the Windsor & Newton Series 7 - while expensive I find the quality is worth the premium price
ReplyDeleteAs for cleaning - I've found that Pink Soap is the best brush cleaner - rather than a cake it's in a liquid format and I find it easier to get on the brushes and moisturizes the W&N's to keep the shape for a long time
W&N sure seem like a favorite. A liquid does sound better and easier than a cake. Plus I am worried I will ruin the brushes cleaning on a cake.
DeleteI replace mine every few months or as soon as I find them difficult to paint with. I water my paint down and rinse in clean water before I dip the brush in the paint again usually wipe away excess water on some kitchen roll/tissue. I've never tried using cleaner before but my brushes have never really got that gunked up either.
ReplyDeleteMost brushes I purchase are Kolinsky Sable but they are only a few quid each and my LGS carries them so I just pop in and grab one. Perhaps you should get perhaps 2-3 of each size from somewhere and maybe it will keep you going.
I've read about the more expensive brushes but haven't made that leap either yet.
Some sage advice. Thanks Simon. I think I will try for some standard kolinsky sable like you have suggested
DeleteI've actually used the same product and have had really great results. I've been able to revive old brushes that were pretty much useless and moved to applying glue to bases etc. Even old drybrushes have somehow come up looking decent again.
ReplyDeleteFor your tip problems I recommend leaving a bit of the soap on the brush and shaping the tip into a sharp point and leaving it to dry before next use. And remember to rinse it before next use. Works for me at least.
Thanks for the tips especially letting it dry on the brush to restore tips. Hopefully it does the trick for my brushes. That's pretty impressive that it works on brushes that have been used for glue.
DeleteWell yeah I do rinse the brushes quite thoroughly after glue though so they aren't like solid lumps :) Won't get them up for detail duty, but good enough for basecoating. That stuff is still surprisingly potent, you just have to use some time to get the brushes clean.
DeleteProbably the bristle material has some effect on the end result too. At least the brushes with natural bristles seem to come off better than some of the synthetic brushes.